Food is one the the three, four or five most central needs of humans (depending on who you ask, it includes food, water, shelter, sex and community -- not necessarily in that order). But food preferences, once essential needs are met are definitely subject to change and style. A recent article in the New York Times talks about an old Hungarian pig breed that has come back into fashion for all the worst -- or best -- reasons, depending on your perspective. Either way you look at it -- or even if you are a vegan and consider there to be NO reason to raise (oppress) animals -- it is an argument in favor of diversity. This particular breed, the Mangalitsa (in Hungarian pronounced MAHN-gah-leet-za) was saved from oblivion -- domestic extinction -- by a Hungarian animal geneticist and is now a major cash sow [sic} for him, and the few American producers who managed to import brood sows before import restrictions were imposed. This is classic "slow food" or "heirloom" farming. According to the NYT story the Mangalitsas take an extra six months to raise, and only bear 5-8 piglets instead of the usual 12-14 for modern, industrial breeds. That means higher costs, and higher prices, but the chefs (who seem to be the predominant buyers at the moment) make up for it by "using everything but the squeal" which is, after all, the way things used to be done. I think we are headed back there, and with new understanding so we don't regress, i think that's a great thing. For a different angle on the difference between industrial and artisanal pig production, see our post on Big MACC Attack called Free Range Trickiness.
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