Dark Star

From Dry Country to Beer Country

Now that I have moved to Germany I have started a new blog for my adventures in Deutschland.

http://fromdrycountrytobeercountry.typepad.com/

Enjoy Reading!!

Water Skiing on the Blue Nile

As I skimmed across the blue nile waters I kept reminding myself of the skill of my boat drivers, the importance of my life preserver, and the hope that the noisy motor of the boat would keep away all the crocs.

Fez, Birthday in the Medina

Roosters crowing and birds chirping outside our window were pleasant reminder that we were not in Khartoum. As the sun peeked above the horizon, Hannah and I ventured out for a walk and a cafe au lait. It was a brisk morning as we bundled in our sweatshirts and scarfs. Around the city, people were bustling on their way to work. Buses pulled up and throngs of people piled out, dresssed and ready to start monday morning with a bang. The only shops open at this early hour were tea houses and french patrisseres (remenants of the french influnce on Morocco) pilled high with delicious pasteries, crossants and freshly backed bread. Dividing the road is a thin tree lined park decorated with small white lights for scenic night appeal.

As Rosie and Marissa join us we enjoy fresh squeezed avocado juice and decadent french patrisses in a small local cafe I open my birthday presents. The birthday song is barely audible over the blaring TV broadcasting the arabic Koran for the neighborhood to hear.

Our local guide, Ali, a chunky moroccan man who smoked like a chimney, coughed like it was his last breath, and had little patience for meandering shoppers led us around the Fez Medina. The Medina is a self-sustaining community with shops and schools weaved within a labrinyth of small stone passageways and open market areas. Donkey's are the medina taxicab carrying anything in and out of the souk/market. With the winding stone hallways, talkative vendors and enticing goods/crafts it is very be caught up in your shopping or bargaining and forget your directions.

Walking Across the Border

The bus line in Sebta goes right to the Moroccan Border / Frontiere on the banks of the Gilbratar Strait. I could only admire the scenic view for a moment, because I was concentrating on the next step of our journey: crossing the border.

When the bus stopped, we unloaded with our luggage and followed the crowd on foot towards the border. We walked with no problem through the Spanish side, and wove through the crowds of touts hanging around the border crossing. Passport control was a little slitted window in a trailer. Nervously, we fill out a basic form, and handed over our passports for inspection and stamping. Once cleared we followed a maze of paths marked by cinderblocks, with sketchy men atevery turn. Clutching our belongings -- and happy to be crossing the border in broad day light -- we went through one more passport control chec...and, at last, we were officially in Morocco!

(That is me in the corner of the picture with my green backpack)

A sea of rickety yellow taxis and men awaited us, each one very interested in driving four young foreign women. Negotiating for a taxi was difficult with our very basic French. Our Sudanese Arabic was not much help and they used quick speaking French, a Moroccan Arabic and local Berber tongues that we could not understand. But after some minor hassle we were safely in a taxi and on through the tall green mountains to Tangier, Morocco to catch the noon time train to Fez.

Crossing the Strait of Gilbratar

Our five hour train ride from Seville to Algericas (Spain) ended with a mad dash towards the waterfront in an attempt to catch the ferry leaving for Tangier (Morocco). Algericas is a typical port town with handfuls of seedy men and touts offering whatever they think you might need or being willing to buy just to be rid of them. Unfortunately, we missed the boat direct to Tangier and had to book tickets on the next boat to a city named Sebta, on the African continent, but still part of Spain.

It was leaving right away, so after purchasing the tickets we had to run with our luggage across the road, through the parking lot, up the stairs, down the hallway to the departure gate, and into the entrance ramp, all in a matter of about six minutes. We just made the ferry.

Plush arm chairs, coffee tables, a snack bar and duty free shopping gave the ferry a posh, expensive feel. But on each table are motion sickness bags, a subtle hint to the choppy waters between Europe and Africa. As far as I know, no one on our brief, 40 minute journey actually used one of the bags, but some people looked close, keeping their heads down and their minds on other things.

We knew very little about Sebta when we arrived, but based on the brief guidebook description we expected a sketchy resort port town similar to Algericas. Once the boat docked, we stepped out to see a booming metroplois resort city with shops, clubs, restaurants -- even fountains with colorful lights projecting into the night. Seupa was our last taste of Spain as we would return to "Africa" (Morocco) in the morning.

Seville, Spain: Flamenco Dancers

Seville, the city best known for bull fighting and flamenco dancers. We spent our first night in Spain and enjoyed the Flamenco Dancing and tall glass of Sangria.

Spanish people are very friendly and willing to help, but speak very little English. Luckily two people in our group spoke a little spanish, so with shrades and limited spanish we got by just fine. Around the city of Seville there are many piazzas where families, friends, or couples congregate and enjoy food, drink, or each other's company.
 The stores in Seville are packed with rows of beautiful, bright and colorful flamenco dresses of every pattern and style. Accessories to match any dress line the walls from magentas feathers, fire orange clips, sea green barettes to ink black and flaming red beads.

In the restaurants wine is plentiful, only $1.25 a glass. For breakfast and lunch enjoyed ham and cheese sandwiches on plush white bagettes washed down (at lunch time) with glasses of white wine. The pleasures enjoyed outside of Shaaria Law.

Wearing The Niqab (Burqa)

The niqab or burqa is worn by muslim women to keep them from worrying about their appearance and to conceal their beauty (according to wikipedia: niqab ). Many women around the city of Khartoum wear the niqab for everyday life: to school, the market, or even when driving a car. Niqabs come in many different styles, but most provide 2 wearing options.

One option is to wear mesh or thin fabric over the entire face and eyes so they are not visible to others.

Recognize This Person?

The second option allows just the eyes to be visible.

How About Now?

Sometimes I find that women who wear the niqab this way are very talented make-up artists, with stunning (and elaborate) eye decorations. Ya gotta flaunt what ya got!:-)

Tutti Island: At the meeting of the Nile

An island perfectly placed at the meeting of the two niles; the blue nile from Ethiopia and the white nile from Uganda. From the northern banks of the island, the nile river becomes one flowing together through the desert banks towards Egypt. Tutti Island is a picnic destination for local Khartoum families, university students or occasionally westerners looking to get away from the urban centre.

To reach this island there is a small ferry boat (costing about 10 cents) that shuttles people and goods across the 100m of nile river. Ferry boats are small skulls with a light shade cover fitting about 30 people, various goods, or small means of transport (motorcycle or bicycle), a driver and conductor who collects the money. Once on the other side, a pick-up truck must be arranged (and price bargain) to drive to the beach with a pick up for a few hours later. A decent price is about 4 USD roundtrip split between 10 people.   Benchs are added in the truck bed and a small metal cover built to protect from the sun. The ride is anything but comfortable with very little cushion over the bumpy roads.

Our picnic area is perched under a tall tree just on the other side of the little hill in the picture. Luckily it is beautiful facing the beach and the nile because there are few choices that offer enough shade to spread blankets with a view of the beach.

Sending Mail from Khartoum

Most people live in the email and computer age now where snail mail is not common for general correspondence.  In Khartoum email is easier, faster and generally more reliable then snail mail. When moving to Khartoum, I passed out my mailing address to my family and friends. I have been very lucky and here in Khartoum and received many letters and packages from all of you, so thank you.

Great Pyramids of Giza

The great pyramids of Giza! Many people believe the pyramids of Giza to be one part of the seven wonders of the world. On a brief trip to Egypt in December I visited these pyramids built for the ancient kings and queens of Egypt. As any country girl would be, I was in awe at the enormous height of the pyramids. If you look very closely in the picture you can see me standing in front the pyramid; I am wearing jeans, a red shirt and black scarf.

 Starting at the desert entrance to the pyramid park we (my friend) climbed atop camels. We rode camels up the sandy hills through the dunes toward the great pyramids.

The picture perfect view of the great pyramids and the sphinx.